Behind THE SCENES
THE MAKING OF OUR SIEME BAGS
#FOUNDERSTORIES
I have always loved fashion, but not just the end product. I live for the entire process of fashion design and creation. So when I launched Sieme, I vowed to create a brand that could bring total transparency to the design and making process. I want you to see where and how our products are made and meet those crafting them so that you can be inspired in the same way that I am.
The term “made-in-italy” is thrown around a lot. As we move through our first production, I am providing a behind-the-scenes in depth look at what that phrase truly means. To me; it is the difference between gently stretching the leather through assembly to achieve the perfect curve of a handle, or adding reinforcements that often cost as much as the leather so your strap will never break. It is the magic of watching hands with decades of experience move fluidly to create something real from nothing but a sketch.
I hope you will read on to understand the amount of work, passion and creative energy that goes into making these bags. I truly believe that when you understand how something is made and the passion with which it is realized, that product becomes even more precious.
Enjoy!
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Our process starts by visiting local “cutting factories” who spend all day cutting out leather pieces to send to handbag sewing factories for many of the major luxury brands. We collect the best quality leather excess and then sort it by size and color
With our first production alone, we have rescued and repurposed 1,500 sq ft or 140 square meters of leather!
Next I control each leather piece and decide where it will best be utilized. For example, longer pieces will be saved for straps and handles, while pieces with more natural defects are sent to our weavers. This helps ensure we utilize as much leather as possible.
After thinning the leather pieces through a special machine, the bundles are collected by our weaver Francesca.
Francesca cuts the leather into strips and sorts them by color combinations. Then each package is sent to our network of weavers. These are usually women who work from home as they are often caregivers or have families and enjoy the flexibility.
The full panel is crafted on a wooden board. Each strip of leather is nailed to the board in one direction and then woven through in the other direction. Through true collaboration, every weaver is free to design each leather panel through their own expertise. This results in endlessly unique formations that ensure every single bag we make is one of one.
Once the panels are finished, we secure them with tape and Francesca brings them back to the factory for assembly.
Here we are cutting out the pieces with a large die cut machine. Steel cutters are made in the shape of all of our pattern pieces to ensure the most precise cutting. The leather left over is saved for the production of our Cosma Pochette which is a smaller bag. This is why we always start production with the largest style and end with the smallest.
Most large factories don’t work in this way anymore. There is leather ordered for each style and the rest is discarded. I could get into many reasons why this problem persists but for now let’s chalk it up to industrialization and scale.
And all of the pieces for the Marina Bag are cut!
Next we add all of the reinforcements to the leather pieces. these reinforcements separate the luxury bags from the rest of the market because often these materials are just as expensive as the leather. A step as simple as adding a special woven tape to the stress points of a handle or strap often is the difference that keeps that strap from breaking over time.
We are so proud to work with the Association for Recycled Leather in Italy (ASPRI). They provide training courses in leather manufacturing skills to marginalized communities like the incarcerated and immigrants, then place those students in paying internships locally. I am so proud that parts of our Sieme bags are crafted by these interns and used as examples in the ASPRI leather school. It is all a part of our restorative production philosophy… using fashion to support our communities instead of tearing them down.
Next the edges of each leather piece are hand painted with a special leather paint. This requires sanding down the edges by hand and then carefully rolling paint over it. Each edge is sanded and painted at least 3 times. For luxury bags, this process is still completed by hand as it is the best way to ensure that the paint will not crack and chip over time.
Non-exposed edges are thinned down through a hand sciving machine. This is one of the most difficult parts of the process because the leather is very easy to tear. I worked in a leather factory for over a year and was still not permitted to use this machine! If that happens, an entirely new piece must be cut. These machines must be calibrated by hand for every type of leather. The fact that we use many different rescued leathers, means we must spend a lot more time calibrating the machines!
Logos heat pressed onto our leather pockets!
Our woven leather panels must be attached to a webbing to secure the weave. Then the panels cut very carefully and now all the pieces can be assembled!
Our macchinista stitches the bags together with a leather sewing machine. In handbag production, this type of work must be extremely precise because unlike fabric, once a hole is punched in the leather, it cannot be closed. Therefore, skilled macchinistas require years of experience! Serena, pictured here, has been a macchinista for decades and ensures each stitch is perfect. Here is another level that separates luxury from the rest.
The assembly is finalized by hand. Our signature wrapped handles must be finished by hand as well, gently threading strips of leather through the holes along the handle and securing it with a hand stitch.
And this is all the scrap that remains from the production of our Marina Bag! From tables filled with excess leather, to this one bag, we have kept our promise to reduce waste AND make gorgeous artisan handbags!
I hope you enjoyed our in depth behind the scenes! If you love seeing the process, share this post on your social media or leave me a comment below! I would love to hear from you
All the Creative Vibes
Cassandra - Founder and Designer of Sieme Brand
Our spring production is limited!
if you love one of our designs and want to get on the waitlist for first priority when purchasing, make sure to email, or message us on social media with your interest! (No commitment necessary) We will add you to the waitlist and reach out before revealing our collection to the public.
