#LAVITA SIEME - VAL D’Orcia + Bagno Vignoni
Hey friends! I started the La Vita Sieme series to highlight my favorite “locals only” places, experiences and things about living in Florence, Tuscany and Italy. It has morphed into a cathartic way to share my love with all of you and to remind me of the magic that exists in this stunning pocket of the world on days when living in another country seems to weigh heavier than the excitement. I have loved everywhere I have written about. However, this week may be my favorite of all.
South Tuscany
VAL D’ORCIA and Bagno di Vignoni
There are few places in the entire world that have captured my heart the way the Val D’Orcia does. Past Siena, and settled in between Montalcino and Montepulciano, it’s open rolling hills and overabundance of medieval hilltop villages epitomizes the breathtaking magic of the Tuscan countryside. Even trying to paint this picture with words feels so inadequate to the quiet magnificence that is this place. This is truly God’s country and really, you just need to see it for yourself. But in the meantime, during the time of Corona, a girl can try…
Maybe the best way to frame this would be a choose your own adventure.
1 : If you have never been to the Tuscan countryside or prefer the comforts of luxury hotels, English menu options and taxis, I would suggest staying in the picturesque but still larger city of Montepulciano and using day trips to venture out to wineries and explore lesser known areas.
The vistapoint from the old city wall in Montepulciano - Click the photo for more information!
2: If you have already been to the most popular places in Tuscany or are looking for a more authentic luxury experience, organize a driver to take you directly to the small (and I mean extremely small) center of Bagno Vignoni. Stay in one of the spa hotels for a long weekend and venture out during the day to visit other towns and wineries.
The Piazza surrounding the ancient thermal baths at Bagno Vignoni.
3. And finally, if you are really pining for a truly local experience, quite possibly with very little English, I would suggest staying in the magnificent village of Castiglione D’Orcia. This would include renting a car and booking an Airbnb (or actually booking.com as it is much more widely used in Europe). I would recommend this if you have always wanted to drive through the winding roads of Tuscany, But be warned, medieval villages do not have parking spaces. So you must park in a lot below the village and walk with your suitcases slightly uphill and through the town to reach your apartment. (Full disclosure, it is about 10 minute walk.) This is what we often do and somehow even though I know this information, I still overpack.)
Our apartment in Castiglioni D’Orcia
I would be remiss if I did not mention that staying in areas outside of major cities in Italy is like traveling back in time 30 years. So here are a few things to remember.
There may be one taxi in all of the village and most likely, they are eating lunch, on vacation or just “busy”.
Never rely on public buses to come on time, or when Google Maps says they will.
Schedule lunch reservations between 12:30 and 2:30 pm as restaurants close between lunch and dinner. There are no places to just “grab a quick bite” at 4:30pm because you were too busy touring to think about sitting down to eat. That is quite literally unconscionable in Italian culture.
Only the most elderly population eats dinner in a restaurant before 7:30 – 8:00 pm. Not used to eating that late? Don’t worry, Aperitivo is usually from 5:00 – 7:00 pm.
Cash is still king
EVERYTHING within small towns will be closed on Sundays, period.
Most places don’t take AMEX so bring another credit card (ok, now onto the trip)
In my opinion, the views of the D’Orcia Valley are the most spectacular in Tuscany. and the best way to see an ENTIRE 360-degree view is to climb the Rocco di Tentennano. Built in the 11th century, this military fortress and castle has been slowly restored by the Italian State. The only way to get there is to drive, or if you are staying in Castiglione D’Orcia, it would be a nice little hike. For 3 euro you can enter the surrounding park, which boasts incredible views of its own, and climb the tower to the roof. So essentially… it’s the best 3 euro you’ll ever spend. Be warned, this climb, while only 3 stories, is incredibly steep! The stairs are narrow metal grids and the last few steps to the roof are not for the faint of heart (or feet). Make sure to wear sneakers or shoes that do NOT slip. Don’t worry, if you cannot make it to the roof, the view from the base level of the tower is still incredible. But do yourself a favor and try to make it to the very top, while also appreciating that the original inhabitants of this tower had to climb wooden ladders as there were no stairs!
Aside from the views, the best parts of the D’Orcia Valley are the sulfuric thermal baths. These natural hot springs have been used since the Roman and Etruscan times and you can still see the ruined structures from some of the original Roman Bath Houses today. In fact, the Piazza of Bagno Vignoni is built around the remains of one of these original baths and is called “Centro Benessere Le Terme”. While you cannot swim in the bath at the piazza as it is a protected heritage site, the Hotel Posta Marcucci has a beautiful outdoor sulfuric bath open to guests and paying visitors along with a very top-notch spa.
The remains of the Roman bath houses at Bagno Vignoni
View of the thermal sulfuric baths at Hotel Posto Marcucci. Click the photo to view their website!
All along the piazza are little enotecas, restaurants and shops. Even though this is a spa village, people still dress to go around the Piazza. Please don’t get caught in leggings or sweats. I suggest walking the piazza at dusk, as the setting sun casts a golden glow on the stone buildings and the sky turns orange. It is a truly magical experience where you can feel a sacred energy of natural restoration and tranquility. When you are here, you know that the earth, history and the universe have deemed this place an ancient natural respite. After your stroll, I recommend a very delicious and inexpensive Aperitivo in the garden of La Bottega di Cacio where you can build your own charcuterie plate and the wine pours are extremely generous.
While all of the restaurants along the piazza looked excellent, we ventured to another town for dinner. Proceed down the winding dark roads at your own risk. However, if you want to experience truly authentic south Tuscan cuisine, Ristorante Fonte Alle Vena is wonderful. If it is a little chilly, try the Acquacotta for a first course. This special dish originated as a peasant dish some 300 years ago. It is a hearty vegetable soup served over a large slab of bread with an egg cracked inside right before serving. As papa al pomodoro is to Florence, acquacotta is to Siena. It is also a GREAT dish to replicate at home when scrounging the refrigerator during those frigid winter months.
Click the photo for my go-to recipe for Aquacotta!
As wonderful as the spas built around the sulfuric hot springs are, you can also find and enjoy them in nature. Now this is a truly authentic Italian experience. It is impossible to reach these places unless you have a car and rather good directional skills. Bagno di San Filippo is a natural sulfuric hot spring nestled about 20 kilometers from Bagno Vignoni. Park and walk down the hill and through the forest to reach the springs. (Pro tip, the further you park down the hill, the shorter distance you have to walk back up it! ) However, if you do not want to pay meter parking, all the way at the top of the hill on the left is a small gravel covered free parking lot.
If you decide to explore Bagno di San Filippo, wear sneakers or hiking boots and not ones you care about. The ground is usually muddy from water that seeps out from the springs. as you navigate around many roots, rocks and mud patches. In less than 10 minutes you will arrive at the stretch of springs where you can wade in the natural pools. (Another pro tip would be to bring water shoes, a robe and some towels.)
These pools are filled with slippery rocks. Wear the robe to the water’s edge and then leave it on the bank so you can quickly wrap it around yourself when exiting. Use the towels as blankets to sit on along the riverbank. The springs are hot but not a jacuzzi. We went on a 55-degree day (fahrenheit) and I was extremely comfortable in the baths. Getting out, I was glad to have my robe!
The colors and formations of the springs are magnificent with rounding melting rocks like giant drip castles in shades of white and pastels. Small waterfalls create natural back massagers bubbling from pool to pool. Even if you do not want to bathe, just seeing this natural wonder is worth the trip! However, this adventure is most likely a two-hour detour, not a full half day (unless you really love sitting in natural springs). As there exists only one bar in the very small cluster of homes next to Bagno di San Filippo, I would recommend choosing morning or early afternoon to explore.
While these are some of the lesser known treasures of the D’Orcia Valley,
any experience here would be exceptionally special. From Montalcino to Montepulciano, some of the best wineries in Italy are here (aka all the Brunello). I have listed a few recommendations below. If you are an avid wine lover, do yourself a favor and get to Altesino and Ciacci Piccolomini di Aragona. There are far more skilled wine writers than I, but all I will say is AH-MAZ-ING! And while there is so much to see, take comfort in knowing that all of this is about a 30 to 45-minute drive from one another. To arrive at Bagno Vignoni from Florence is about 2 hours by car. Whether staying for an action-packed long weekend or relaxing for a few weeks, you cannot go wrong by choosing Val D’Orcia. Each time I visit, I feel so restored and secure in knowing that our world is awe inspiring. Thank you for allowing me to share my love with you. And until you can travel again, I hope this virtual trip will fill you with a little beauty, joy and restoration.
All the creative vibes,
Cassandra
Want to try Aquacotta at home? Here is my favorite recipe
Explore Altesino Winery here! The newest 2015 vintage of Brunello will go down in history as one of the best (according to Wine Spectator)
Explore Ciacci Piccolomini di Aragona here! There is an incredible story about this Winery and the family who owns it.
Explore more about the Hotel Posto Marcucci here!
For more information on the D’Orcia Valley click here
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